YUKA APP: WHEN A STICKER OVERSIMPLIFIES SCIENCE

Prof. Luca Valgimigli, BeC Technical Director

Yuka: from food assessments to cosmetics

Yuka is a French app created and managed by an entrepreneurial group that claims to provide quality and safety judgments on cosmetics using a rating approach similar to Nutriscore. It originated in the food sector and has since expanded to cosmetics.

A heavily criticized approach

The approach is heavily criticized by many, not least by AGCOM, the Italian COMPETITION and MARKET AUTHORITY. In my opinion, it is rightly criticized, as it claims to very superficially resolve the complexity of the science behind a cosmetic product.

It does so by assigning a red, orange, or green label to the product based on rather questionable grounds, despite the declarations of independence found on their website, going so far as to suggest alternative products to those sought by the user.

Evaluation criteria and lack of transparency

It is unclear what criteria are used, as there is no transparency on this, but it seems the criterion is simplicity: the less "stuff" in it, the better! This is a possible evaluation criterion, likely reflecting the point of view of those who created the algorithm, but it is certainly not the only possible criterion and, frankly, not even the most logical one.

Because the quality of a product is based on what it contains, not what it doesn't. This approach completely ignores three fundamental parameters: the quality of the ingredients, their quantity, and above all, the effectiveness of the formulation.

If a product contains nothing potentially concerning, but also contains and does nothing good, what is the purpose of that product? And above all, who benefits from it? Certainly not the consumer!

The risk of misinformation and alarmism

Apps like YUKA not only fail to correctly inform consumers about the quality of a cosmetic product, but they also induce unjustified alarmism regarding natural cosmetics, favoring others without any transparency.

Allergens in the INCI list

Excessive attention is given to the presence of allergens in the product's INCI. European regulations have identified a list of substances that may be found in cosmetics or perfumes as natural components of essential oils used in the formulation. Since it is possible that some people are allergic to these substances, the regulations require that they be indicated in the INCI, even if they were not deliberately added to the formula but are inevitably present as components of natural extracts in the product.

If a consumer knows they are allergic, they are thus informed and can make their choices. But if they are not allergic, why should they worry? YUKA does not make this distinction and gives a red label, as if the product contained high quantities of very dangerous chemicals intentionally added. A distorted and unfounded approach: limonene, citral, eugenol, and other such natural substances are not dangerous unless one is allergic.

Comparison with food allergies

Who among us, not being allergic to gluten, nuts, and mushrooms, would avoid eating these foods because someone else in the world might be allergic? No one! So why should we worry about applying natural substances to our skin to which we are not allergic?

Already precautionary regulations

By law, these substances are reported in INCI if their level exceeds 0.001%, a level so low that even those who are allergic would not experience discomfort in many cases. European regulations are therefore already extremely precautionary regarding safety. Why further terrorize the consumer? Who benefits from this?

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